It´s winter and the Palestinian and I are walking through the orchards around our adoptive Valencian village. The fruit trees are heavy with ripe oranges and tangerines. The air is fresh and electric blue.
“My grandparents had fields just like these,” he says. “In Palestine. They even exported to the United Kingdom.” In 1948 his grandparents were expelled from their land by Zionist militias, together with some 750.000 other Palestinians. From that moment onwards others reaped the harvest of their rich land and pocketed the profits.
“Wednesday I have to go for my papers,” he says. “Would you like to come along?”
“Of course,” I say. “I wouldn´t want to miss it for the world.” I feel honored that he´s asking me. He´s finally getting his DNI, his Spanish ID.
That Wednesday we drive to the courthouse of Massamagrell in his little red car. After passing a security agent we take a seat on a chair in the hall. When it´s our turn, we approach the counter, that is finished off with a glass wall that extends to the ceiling. It evokes the impression that we have come to a zoo to admire the two ladies who are behind the glass taking care of administration. The chubbier of them slides a few forms on recycled paper through a slot in the glass. The Palestinian has to fill out his nationality, his place and date of birth, his old name and his new name.
“It´s like receiving a birth certificate,” he whispers to me. “I get a new name.” In Spain people have two last names: one from their father and one from their mother. So the Palestinian´s new name will be his old name plus the last name of his mother. He fills everything out and then slides the papers back through the slot, where the woman behind the counter picks them up. From behind the glass we watch her walk to her computer and start typing diligently on the keyboard. She prints out some more forms and asks the Palestinian if he can check if everything is correct. He lets his index finger slide over the page as he reads. Then taps with his fingernail on the word PALESTINA. “I wasn´t born in Palestine,” he says. “I was born in Saudi Arabia.”
After his family got expelled, his parents worked wherever they got permission, first in Saudi Arabia, where their children were born, later in Syria. The Palestinian grew up in a refugee camp in Damascus, where his father worked as a pediatrician. He studied at Damascus University. Just before he graduated, the war broke out.
The woman behind the counter walks back to her computer and corrects the mistake. She prints the documents out again. “And now?” she asks. The Palestinian flips through the papers and nods. All correct. Then she passes him more documents to read through and sign.
To escape military service he fled to Egypt and from there to Gaza. He had never truly felt at home, and was in search of his identity, his country. Which he hoped to find in Gaza, Palestine. Reality hit him hard – in Gaza he was an outsider as well. Another war broke out: in the summer of 2014 he endured seven weeks of heavy bombing. Thousands died that summer. The Palestinian sat in an abandoned apartment, without water or electricity. He slept fully clothed and with his backpack next to him, ready to run when the bombs hit. He had to flee again, but at least he had seen Palestine. He had come a little closer to the land of his grandparents.
Again his finger lingers on a word. He taps it with his nail and looks at me. RENUNCIAR. Renounce. Give up. It says he has to renounce his Palestinian nationality. That´s what he has to sign. He looks at the document again. I see a tear gliding down the side of his nose. He signs the paper and slides it through the slot.
Through the university in Gaza he enlisted in an Erasmus exchange program in Spain. He received a three month visa, but that was barely enough to get out of Gaza: most of the time the border was closed, and hundreds of people were waiting to get out. Finally he managed to get on a bus to Cairo Airport by paying a trafficker. The day before his visa expired, he arrived at Barcelona airport, with nothing more than a backpack full of clothes and books. As soon as he arrived, he asked for asylum. For a year and eight months he was kept in limbo. Then he got the message he could stay. “I don´t know what would have happened to me if I hadn´t gotten asylum,” he once told me. “I had nowhere to go.”
That was seven years ago.
After some more work at her computer, the woman behind the glass now comes walking towards us again. She slides the Palestinian´s new ID-card through the slot. He picks it up and smiles; his eyes remain serious. “I´m thirty-two years old,” he says, “and for the first time in my life I have civil rights.” I don´t know what to say. We link arms and leave the building.
In a bar around the corner we order bocatas, baguettes. One with tortilla de patata for him, one with tuna and tomato for me. The friendly barkeeper folds a handful of olives in aluminum foil for us to take along. We eat our bocatas on a bench between the parking lot and a deserted playground.
“How do you feel now?” I ask him, olive oil dripping from my fingers after the first bites of tuna.
“Responsible,” he says. He looks up from his bocata to the empty playground, then he looks at me. “Did you know that, as we speak, hundreds of Palestinian children are locked up in Israeli prisons?” I shake my head. I didn´t know that.
“And I am here,” he says. “I got here. I have privileges now. So I should do something with that. I cannot abandon them.”
We stay silent for a while, munching the bread.
“That word,” I say. “Renunciar. That´s just on paper. To me you are still Palestinian.” He smiles. This time his brown eyes smile along. We start cracking jokes about how he should behave to be considered a true Spaniard, and those jokes keep us laughing all the way home.